AnimalsAnimals are generally not treated with much civility or respect in the Philippines. One might disagree if one considered only the very common sight of young men carrying their beautiful cockerels around, stroking and caressing them with all the tenderness of a lover, and whispering a sweet nothing or two to them. Chances are, however, that such royally pampered roosters are doomed to enter the deadly arena of a cockfight.
Cockfighting is perhaps one of those aspects of Filipino culture that is overly romanticised in foreign literature to an extent unrecognisable by locals. Guidebooks often speak of the passion Filipinos have for the sport, of how entire villages gather for the weekly cockfights and wage their livelihoods on them. My impression, on the other hand, was that the sport appealed to a very enthusiastic but rather small minority. Women seem to be completely uninvolved; there were none at the cock pit we visited and most women do not know directions to the local cock pit. The average man is also entirely uninterested. Several locals disapproved of the sport. I imagine it is rather like bullfighting in Spain or sumo in Japan: widely associated with the country only for its uniqueness but in reality no more than a niche activity.
The cockfight itself is quite a spectacle. The battling cocks are brought out and allowed to strut individually for a few moments, followed by some gentle sparring with other non-combatant cocks. The spectators observe the birds' aggression, speed and physique and start to place bets by signalling or shouting to the bookmakers' staff (in a manner reminiscent of exchange trading floors). After some more posturing, the cocks are armed with a large blade on one foot. Armed cockfights rarely last more than a minute, whereas the unarmed cockfights more prevalent in the provinces and in other countries are protracted and exhausting affairs. It is difficult to decide which are more cruel.
Finally the fighters meet for the first time. Held by their owners, the are brought within pecking distance and allowed one strike with the beak. This is perhaps the most significant indicator of superiority, if any, and accordingly the betting rises to a crescendo. Then all is suddenly silent when the cocks are dropped to the ground, and the fight begins.
The birds usually go at it once they are released. Sometimes they may spend a tense minute strutting and considering each other. The most dramatic move is when they try to intimidate the opponent by flaring their beautiful feathers around the neck. It is quite a sight when both cocks do so at the same time.
Once the fight actually starts it is short and brutal. A flash of feathers, a cloud of dust, a spray of blood, and it is over. A single stab with the blade is usually enough to win the fight, for the victim is greatly weakened by the loss of blood and usually dies not long after. The winner lives to fight another day, while to loser is invited to dinner.
The slaughter of animals is a fairly common business in the provinces. Mornings are marked by squeals of dying pigs, and one often sees live pigs carried about town with their legs tied to a pole. My memory is vividly stamped by an image of a freshly slaughtered carabao in the centre of Banaue, greeting me the moment I arrived off the bus.
DonsolDonsol is often cited as an encouraging example of eco-tourism in the Philippines. Whale sharks used to be hunted in the area. But a local managed to produce and publish a video of some whale sharks some ten years ago, which led to a boom in tourism. Visitors now come from all over the world for the unique opportunity of swimming with whale sharks. When in season, few places in the world can match the rich waters of Donsol Bay in its frequency of whale shark sightings - they are virtually guaranteed. The locals realised the sharks earned more for them alive than dead.
Personally, the whale sharks were one of the best parts of my trip. The feeling of closeness to such beautiful creatures was incredible. I think this sensation of vulnerable proximity to the greatness of nature is something we all seek and enjoy. It is why we seek out spectacular scenery and why adventure sports like surfing and skydiving are so popular. It is also why I really enjoyed exploring caves and rice terraces on the trip.
